Born on this day, 1956.03.30; Juanito Oiarzabal Urteaga, Spanish Basque climber, who ascended Cho Oyu four times (1985, 2002 and twice in 2003), Gasherbrum II twice (1987 and 2003), Nanga Parbat in 1992, Everest twice (1993 and 2001, the latter without bottled oxygen), K2 twice (1994 and 2004), Makalu twice (1995 and 2008), Broad Peak in 1995, Lhotse twice (1995 and 2011), Kangchenjunga twice (1996 and 2009), Gasherbrum I twice (1997 and 2003), Manaslu twice (1997 and 2011), Dhaulagiri I and Shisha Pangma in 1998 and Annapurna I twice (1999 and 2010). He is one of the climbers, who ascended all the fourteen Main-8000ers.
Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, and the third one in reaching them without supplementary oxygen. He was the first person to conquer the top 3 summits twice (Everest + K2 + Kangchenjunga), and was the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until Carlos Soria Fontan made his successful attempt in 2014, when he was 75 years old. In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2.
In 2009 he announced he wants to become the first person in history to reach a “double 14”, summiting each 8000er twice. In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing Annapurna, a world record. In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander.
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