Repost, Ralf Dujmovits:
"In my last post, I mentioned I would share some of my thoughts about the current attempt to climb K2 in winter. There are more than 60 people in at least four different teams with hugely varied levels of climbing experience. Maybe some of these thoughts can help to reduce the risks on what will surely be an overcrowded mountain:
🔹Working together, coordinating efforts, and respecting one another – instead competing – will surely help to ensure that everyone returns safely.
🔹The ‘guest climbers’ need to support the Sherpas as much as possible in every way.
🔹In winter, rockfall on the 8,000 m peaks is triggered by high winds ….and in this particular case, by the sheer number of climbers.
🔹Camp I offers space for a maximum of 6 to 8 tents, most of which are exposed to rockfall.
🔹After being acclimatized and having the fixed ropes in place, if a climber cannot make it from BC (~5,000 m) or ABC (~5,350 m) directly to Camp II (6,800 m) in a single push, they shouldn’t consider climbing K2! The mountain is not meant for slow-moving mountaineers – there are too many objective hazards and even more so in winter.
🔹There are tons of old and dangerous fixed ropes on the Abruzzi ridge.
🔹From the end of the Black Pyramid, past the approximate location of Camp III (7,300 m) up to The Shoulder, the danger of slab avalanches is enormous. The terrain here is textbook avalanche terrain, with wind slabs typically forming after each storm.
🔹Having a GPS at all times is crucial; in bad weather, especially if the tracks have been filled in, it's nearly impossible to find one’s way through the icefall between Advanced Base Camp and Base Camp, and between Camp III, The Shoulder, and the Bottle Neck.
The Shoulder of K2 is a massive, featureless plateau – a bad place to be lost at almost 8,000 m.
🔹The climbers should not go higher than Camp III unless they are super fit, it felt ‘easy’ getting there, and they are ready to suffer a lot. In comparison to the upper part of K2, the lower part is a walk in the park.
🔸I wish all the climbers and support staff the best of luck and look forward to following the progress. Stay safe, stay healthy, and stay humble!"