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    Utror and Gabral, the quieter side valleys above Kalam

    Most people who reach Kalam turn toward Ushu Forest and Mahodand Lake and never see the other branch of the river. Utror sits about 16 to 20 km west of Kalam. It has terraced fields, wooden houses and far less traffic than the Ushu road, so it feels like a different valley even though you […] More